What to Look for When Buying a Used Car

Whether you’re buying a new or used model, looking for your next car is an exciting experience. Choosing a pre-owned vehicle can offer substantial savings, but it’s essential to perform some extra checks to make sure the car is safe, well-maintained, and that you’re buying from a trusted seller. This guide walks you through every step of the used car buying process.

Where to buy a used car

You have a few different options if you decide to go down the second-hand route.

1. Buy from a dealer, independent garage or driveway trader

Buying a used car from a dealer, garage or trader is an excellent choice for anyone who feels nervous about the process or isn’t entirely sure what to look for. 

The bigger the business, the more preparation and after-sales support you’ll get. However, the company will also have higher overheads, which means you could pay more compared to buying from a small trader.

A trader buying and selling cars from their driveway is less likely to inspect vehicles before selling them and likely won’t offer a warranty. 

Pros

• A main dealer/garage is likely to have given the car a thorough inspection

• You may get a warranty (usually six or 12 months), giving you extra peace of mind

Cons

• Main dealers/garages typically have higher upfront costs

• Buying from a small-time driveway trader could result in you spending more on repairs

2. Buy from a private seller

Getting a used car from a private seller is often much cheaper than a dealer. 

Pros

• Second-hand cars are often cheaper when sold privately

• There will likely be more opportunity for negotiating on price

• You can get a feel for how well the car has been looked after

• You have the opportunity to find out the owner’s motivation for selling the vehicle

Cons

• Some sellers overvalue their cars

• Privately sold vehicles usually won’t have been subjected to a rigorous health check

• You’ll have to be more knowledgeable when inspecting and testing the car

• You’ll have fewer rights than buying from a dealer

3. Buy from an auction

You should be more cautious when buying from an auction because cars are usually sold this way for a quick sale and may not be in the best condition. That said, securing a bargain is possible if you know what to look for.

Pros

• You can buy your next car quickly and easily

• You could find yourself a bargain if you know what you’re looking for and choose a less competitive auction

• It’s a good chance to see what people are willing to pay for a particular vehicle

• You usually have the opportunity to purchase before and after the auction, giving you more time to decide

Cons

• Auctions are becoming more competitive, and it’s harder to find a good deal since many dealers are now selling part-exchanges through eBay auctions

• You might have to make a decision in a pressured environment, increasing the chance of poor decision making

• You won’t be able to give the car a health check or test drive

4. Buy online

Buying cars online is an increasingly popular option, with most sales on auction sites like eBay. You can bid for a car or click the ‘buy it now’ button - it’s as simple as that.

Buying a vehicle online might seem like a quick and easy solution, but we’d always recommend doing an in-person viewing before parting with your cash. Sellers will often ask for a deposit to confirm the sale before collection.

If the vehicle isn’t as described when you go to pick it up, you can walk away. But you're still contracted to buy it if you decide you don’t like the colour or some other quality.

What to look for when buying a used car

The first thing to do is check the vehicle’s history using a service like Carvertical. They will tell you if the car has been recorded as accident-damaged or has outstanding finance. My other advice would be to manage your expectations - remember, you’re not buying a brand-new vehicle. You can expect a few quirks and small defects. I am better at buying a car for someone else than myself because when it’s for me, I get blinded by how much I want it and overlook problems. So I’d definitely recommend taking someone with you to view the car to get a second opinion.

Matt Wrankmore

Head of FixMyCar's Garage Network

Vehicle logbook (V5C) and other documents

The first thing you should do when you view a used car is ask to see the vehicle logbook, also known as the V5C. This document will tell you whether the seller is the car's registered keeper (which makes them entitled to sell it). 

You technically could buy a vehicle without a V5C, but we wouldn’t recommend it.

It’s also worth asking for any additional documentation the seller can provide, such as:

• Manuals

• Warranty handbooks

• Repair and servicing invoices

MOT and service history

Looking at a car’s MOT and service history is one of the best ways to tell how well it has been looked after. You can find the MOT history for any vehicle online here - all you need is the registration number.

Unfortunately, you can’t find a car’s service history online. Most vehicles come with a service book that gets stamped after each service and details any work carried out. A complete service history is extremely valuable as it shows that the car has been well-maintained. 

If the service book has been lost, as is often the case with older vehicles, ask if the owner has kept invoices from past services. If they don’t have any records of work that has been done to the car, this will reduce its value, so you could haggle the price down.

Safety checks

Remember to test the brakes, indicators and horn when viewing a car. Look at the brakes for signs of corrosion, and do a hard stopping test if you take it for a drive.

Here are five brake problems you should never ignore.

It’s worth taking a tyre tread gauge when you view a used car to check the tread depth. You can also use a 20-pence coin. The tread should be above 1.6mm - if it is close to this depth, the tyres will likely need replacing soon. You could use this information to get the seller to change them for you or lower the price.

Carrying out the above safety checks ensures you buy a vehicle that meets legal requirements and decreases the likelihood of future accidents.

Vehicle inspection and HPI check

Arranging for an independent vehicle inspection and conducting an HPI check can uncover issues with the vehicle you may not otherwise have discovered, such as underlying mechanical faults, a hidden history (for example, if the car has previously been written off), and outstanding finance.

Mileage

Mileage is often one of the main things buyers look at, but high mileage isn’t necessarily bad if the car has been well looked after. In fact, you could get yourself a bargain.

When viewing a car, don’t just accept the mileage the seller tells you or that appears on the dashboard, as this number can be tampered with in a process known as ‘clocking’. Ask yourself whether the mileage aligns with the car’s age and condition. If it doesn’t, be suspicious.

You can check a car’s mileage by looking at its MOT history here. The mileage at each test is recorded, so if you see any discrepancies, this is a sign that someone has clocked it.

This guide discusses common car scams and how to avoid them.

Bodywork

Scratches are inevitable on older cars, but you should still inspect the bodywork closely for signs of damage. If you see any areas that seem to have been repaired, especially if the repair isn’t done well, ask the owner for more information about what caused it. 

If they say they don’t know or are being deliberately vague, it might be a sign that the vehicle has previously been in an accident and may have been written off. You should get an HPI check before going ahead with the purchase.

Dents and other types of damage will affect the vehicle’s value, so bear this in mind when making an offer.

Engine

You don't need to know your way around an engine - you can often detect problems by listening to the sounds it makes when it starts from cold. Any screeching, knocking or ticking sounds could indicate a problem.

If you arrive and the engine is warm, ask to come back later to hear it start from cold if you're worried about unadvertised problems.

Interior

As well as checking the car’s bodywork, have a closer look at the interior and the condition of the upholstery. Leather will often crease and sag as it ages - this is expected in older cars - but it’s worth keeping an eye out for any rips or tears.

While in the vehicle, test all the buttons to check they work, and switch the aircon/blowers on.

Modifications

Ask the seller if the car has been modified. Modifications outside of a vehicle’s original spec must be declared to your insurer and could increase the price of your premium. 

Learn more about car insurance and how to get it cheaper.

Advertised features

Do the advertised features of the car work as expected? Test things mentioned in the sale advert, such as the aircon, infotainment system, and adaptive cruise control. If they don’t work, you might be able to haggle the price down.

Test drive

A survey by Tempcover of 2,000 UK drivers who recently bought a used car revealed that 36% didn't do a test drive first.

Of those who skipped the test drive, 31% later discovered issues they believe could have been identified before the purchase, and 1 in 10 reported that these problems led to expensive repairs.

That's why we strongly recommend test-driving a used car before you buy it. Doing so will allow you to identify potential problems and decide if you like how it drives. 

Before you get behind the wheel, check you’re insured. Dealers usually have insurance that covers test drives. You’ll need to arrange temporary insurance if you’re buying from a private seller and your existing policy doesn’t cover you in other people’s cars.

Find out what happens if you drive without insurance.

What to look for when test driving a used car

Some problems are easy to spot when driving, while others are more subtle. Carry out the following checks on a test drive to identify underlying issues.

1. Does it start okay?

There might be a battery or alternator problem if the engine struggles to start.

2. Check the temperature gauge

Ideally, you want to see how the car starts from cold. If the owner has warmed it up beforehand, ask why - it's a sign they might be hiding something.

3. Monitor the temperature gauge

The gauge should reach half-way (the ideal operating temperature) within about 10 minutes and stay there. If it doesn't, the car might need a new thermostat. And if it overheats, that's a sign of a bigger problem.

4. Listen to the engine

When you take a car for a test drive, you should always do so with the radio switched off so you can listen to the engine. Any unusual noises are a sign of trouble and should make you think twice about buying the car.

5. Check the clutch

The biting point should be easy to find and not too far up the clutch pedal travel. There are two additional tests you should perform:

• Accelerate up a hill in a high gear to check for clutch slipping

• Try a quick start to see if the clutch judders

Clutch replacements are expensive, so if you have any doubts about the state of the clutch, it's probably best to walk away.

6. Check the steering

The steering should be smooth without any unusual noises. If it feels heavy, there could be an issue with the power steering. Try removing your hands from the wheel for a second - the car should continue in a straight line without pulling one way or the other.

7. Check the transmission

You should be able to select all gears easily, and when you take it out of gear, the gear stick should self-centre naturally. Any crunching noises when you change gears should ring alarm bells.

If the car is automatic, make sure gear changes happen smoothly and are in line with the engine load and road speed.

8. Test the suspension

Drive over speed bumps and uneven roads to see what the suspension feels like. There shouldn't be any clunks, squeaks or unusual jolts. This guide explains how to diagnose common suspension problems.

9. Test the brakes

When there are no cars behind you, go hard on the brakes to test them. The car should stop smoothly, without pulling to one side or unusual noises. You should also test the handbrake.

10. Does it perform as expected?

Considering the car's engine size and intended level of performance, does it drive as expected and keep up with traffic? If it feels sluggish or has flat spots where the power drops off, there are likely some underlying issues.

15 tips for buying a used car

• You can save money by choosing a car with a smaller engine.

• March, June, September and December are often the best times to buy from a dealer.

• Create a checklist of your essential car requirements before you start looking.

• Check as many dealerships as possible for your ideal car and make a note of the price - you might be able to get your local dealer to match the best offer.

• Always haggle to get the price down.

• View cars in person and take them on a test drive.

• Don't view cars at night, in the rain or anywhere with poor light.

• Find out when the cambelt or timing chain was last changed - this job costs a lot, so you don't want to have to pay for a replacement any time soon.

• Buying from a dealer costs more but gives you more protection.

• Credit card payments will give you extra protection if something goes wrong.

• Get insurance quotes before buying the car to make sure you can afford it.

• Look for a vehicle with the proper paperwork and a service history.

• Watch out for common car scams, such as cloning.

• Don't feel pressured to buy, and don't be swayed by 'sob stories' - e.g. a new baby on the way or a relationship breakup.

• Before handing over money, agree collection/delivery arrangements, confirm what's included in the price, confirm any work the seller has agreed to do, and make sure you get a receipt.

Questions to ask when buying a used car

Below is a comprehensive list of questions to ask when buying a second-hand vehicle.

Documents

• Can the seller show you the car’s V5C?

• Does the V5C have a watermark, and are there any spelling mistakes on it?

• Is the seller the same as the registered keeper shown on the V5C? If not, why are they selling it for someone else?

• Do the vehicle identification number (VIN), colour and engine match the information in the V5C?

• Does the VIN in the V5C match the number stamped on the bodywork?

• Are there scratches on the windows suggesting an attempt to remove etched-in marks?

• Does the fuel filler look like it’s been forced or replaced?

• Does the vehicle have an MOT, and how long is it valid for?

• Are there any additional documents you can see, such as repair invoices and service history records?

Mileage

• Is the car’s mileage consistent with its age and condition?

• Are there any signs the instruments might have been tampered with to change the mileage?

• Does the mileage recorded in the vehicle’s MOT history match the mileage on the dashboard? And are there any inconsistencies in the MOT history mileage?

Accidental damage

• Are there any inconsistent gaps between panels or mismatched colours, indicating extensive repairs?

• Is there any unusual welding in the boot or under the bonnet?

• Is the car’s paint finish even?

• Can you see traces of paint spray on window seals, handles or plastic mouldings?

• Could the vehicle’s colour have been changed?

Safety

• Are the jack and other tools present?

• Are the tyres the correct specification and in good condition, with a tread depth above 1.6mm?

• Is the spare tyre or tyre inflator in serviceable condition?

• Do all the seatbelts work?

• Do the lights and windscreen wipers work?

• Do the airbag warning lights work correctly?

Test drive

• Are the dashboard warning lights operating as expected? They should come on when you start the engine and switch off again unless there is a fault.

• Do the brakes stop the car quickly or does it take a lot of time/effort?

• Does the car pull to one side when you brake?

• Are there any unusual noises when you brake or turn?

• Does the steering feel normal (no shaking, vibrating or pulling to one side)?

• Is the handbrake effective?

• If the car has ABS, does the warning light go out after you start the engine?

• Does the clutch work as expected, without unusual noises or feelings from the pedal?

Engine

• Can you hear any unusual noises when you start the engine from cold?

• Is there any unusual smoke from the exhaust? (E.g. black or blue in colour, or especially thick.)

• Is the catalytic converter in good condition? Check the vehicle’s most recent MOT test.

• Is there sludge under the oil filler cap? If so, it can indicate poor servicing or short journey use.

• Is there a white, milky substance under the oil cap or in the coolant? This is a sign of head gasket failure.

• Is the oil level correct?

• Has the cambelt/timing chain/wet belt been replaced according to the servicing schedule?

Locks, windows and general controls

• Do the windows and doors open smoothly?

• Do the locks work?

• Are there any signs of forced entry or changed locks?

• Have you got all the right keys? Most vehicles come with two keys, and in modern cars, they’re expensive to replace.

• Do the minor controls work (e.g. heating, ventilation, sat-nav and radio)?

What are your buyer's rights for a used car?

There are two key pieces of legislation you need to be aware of:

• Section 75 of the Road Traffic Act 1988 states that it's illegal for anyone to sell a car that isn't roadworthy, which means it must be safe to drive.

• The Consumer Rights Act requires that all cars bought from dealers must be fit for purpose, of satisfactory quality, and as described.

If you can prove there is a problem with your car, you will be entitled to several fixes depending on when you bring the fault to the trader's attention.

• Within the first 30 days from receiving the vehicle:

  You are entitled to a full refund if you reject the car in the first 30 days due to a fault you can demonstrate. Alternatively, if you'd prefer a repair or replacement, the seller must provide this within a reasonable time and without causing you significant inconvenience.

• From the 31st day until the first six months:

  You are entitled to a repair or replacement from the trader if you discover a fault with the vehicle. If the repair or replacement doesn't address the problem, you can reject the car and receive a refund (which can be reduced based on how much you've used the vehicle) or keep the car and receive a fair price reduction. As long as you can prove a fault exists, it is presumed it existed when you bought the car.

• From six months and up to six years:

  If you experience a fault after six months and can prove it was present when you purchased the vehicle, you are entitled to a repair or replacement. The same rules apply as above, but after six months, the burden of proof is reversed. It's up to you to prove the vehicle had a fault when you bought it.

• After six years:

  You are not entitled to any legal remedy under the laws of England and Wales. (Five years in Scotland).

Paying by credit card is a good idea when you buy a car because it means you can seek redress from the credit card provider. They can be jointly responsible for issues with your vehicle under the Consumer Credit Act 1974.

Looking for affordable car repairs or maintenance? FixMyCar can help you find the right garage at the right price.

If you found this guide helpful, you might also like:

• Should you get a used car warranty?

• Tips for buying a used electric car

• Common car problems

• How to sell a car privately

• How to prepare your car before selling it

• Common car scams & how to avoid them

• Car ownership 101: everything you need to know